While building a house a few years ago, we experienced the usual number of surprises at material costs and delivery times. One of the worst surprises concerned fixed-glass windows. The home is a passive-solar design, so it includes many such windows. We reasoned that because these windows were substantially simpler in construction than the wooden casement windows used elsewhere, they would cost less.

A typical wooden casement is a marvel of precision construction, maintaining airtight weather-seals over many linear feet of sash and through years of winter storms and summer heat. In the San Francisco Bay Area, casement windows typically cost $20 to $30 per sq. ft. of glazed area, including screens. Although window wholesalers told us not to rely on this approximation, we found it to be generally accurate.

We were shocked to discover that a fixed-glass equivalent would run $35 to $45 per sq. ft. of glazed area - an assembly without moving parts or weather-stripping. Adding insult to injury, the first company we contacted quoted a 14 week delivery time. Other companies promise slightly better delivery times, but could not break the $35 per sq. ft. price barrier.

We did not consider ourselves window craftsmen. And it remains true that casement window require so much special tooling that we could not reasonably compete with a production window shop. But the project architect convinced us that we could build quality fixed-glass window in a reasonable amount of time and do so at a price (including our labour, of course) far below the alternatives.

Simple frames
The house is a single-story contemporary with opposing shed roofs and a clerestory. Because the fixed-glass windows follow the roof lines they are trapezoidal. Altogether there are 12 of these windows scattered around the house. We started by laying out all the windows full-scale on the sub-floor.

By far, the most important detail in any window is the sill. The sill is the last stopping point for water before it either drips harmlessly off the house, or is pulled destructively into the walls by capillary action. The 15o bevel on the front of the sill directs water away from the building, while the drip kerf underneath the sill guarantees that capillary action will not pull the water into the house. Milling the jambs and sills from solid stock and incorporating integral stops (rather than using applied stops) similarly prevents water from migrating past the glazing.

The window sills are 1.75 inch thick altogether, with a 0.75 inches thick integral stop, a 0.75 inches thick centre section and a 0.25 inches rabbet in the bottom that fits over the rough opening and further discourages water from entering the house. The head and jamb pieces, which are identical to each other in cross section, are essentially sill pieces without the bevel and kerf details, but they are only 1.50 inches thick altogether because they do not need the 0.25 inches rabbet. The jambs and sills are made of #1 clear white pine and were milled on a table-saw with a dado blade.

All the surfaces that would show after installation were first sanded, and then the pieces were cut to the proper length and angle. The integral stops on the end of each piece had to be cut back (notched) in order to butt the side jambs into the headers and sills. We cut the sills so that the bevelled portion extended past the side jambs on both sides by the width of the exterior trim. The frames were glued and screwed together, and then each was laid on top of its respective chalk-line template on the sub-floor to check the dimensions.

Setting the frames
After the glue had cured, we painted the window frames, the exterior stop and the exterior trim with two coats of primer. After cutting the exterior trim, we attached it to the jambs and heads with a pneumatic finish nailer, driving 8d aluminium finish nails. We stay away from electroplated galvanized nails because they seem to lose their plating and eventually bleed. If we were hand-nailing, though, hot-dipped galvanized 8ds would have been fine. The nail holes were puttied and sanded smooth.

The finished (but unglazed) frames were then set in the rough openings, plumbed and nailed into place. We use standard flashing details, but for good measure, we always run a bead of caulk between the top of the trim and the building paper. After installing the siding, we caulked again between the siding and trim.

Fitting the glass
To make sure the insulating glass would fit into our frames, we cut cardboard template 3/8 inches smaller than the width of the window opening and 3/16 inches smaller than the height and gave them to a glass company. When installing the glass, you can either seal it with glazing tape or with caulking. But if you use caulking, make sure it is compatible with the seal used by the insulating-glass manufacturer. In this case, we used caulk and applied it against the vertical face of each integral stop. We followed with a second application on the outside between the glass and the exterior stops. We used redwood for the exterior stops and nailed them up with 6d aluminium nails. For extra protection, we cut 15o bevels in the sill stops.

We set the glass directly on the sill and have had no problems with it in the two years that the windows have been in place. We have since learned, however, that the Sealed Insulating Glass Manufacturer's Association (SIGMA) recommends setting fixed glass on a pair of small neoprene blocks (called setting blocks), which help distribute the weight of the glass and prevent water from being trapped behind the glass. SIGMA also recommends drilling a pair of weep holes in the exterior sill stops.

Corner sidelight
At the front entrance of the house we built a large sidelight with two panes of glass meeting at right angles. In this case only one header - supported by an exterior wall on one end and by an interior partition on the other - was needed to carry the roof loads. It is conceivable that two headers could be required in circumstances where two load-bearing walls intersect at the window. Several manufacturers of metal connectors make a framing clip for headers that intersect other headers. Because of the unusual glazing detail, it was critical that the rough opening be plumb on either side of the window's corner.

The corner unit was built with the same jamb, sill and head sections as the other windows. First the sill and jamb stock were fabricated as described in the previous sections. Then the sills and heads were mitered and cut to length in matching pairs. Accuracy in cut length was important to guarantee a square opening for the glass. The jambs were cut to matching lengths and the whole unit was assembled near the rough opening.

Before the glue had a chance to set, we placed the unit in the rough opening, aligned the corner of the sill with the corner of the framing, shimmed it level and tacked it in place. We used a plumb bob to align the mitered corner of the head jamb to the identical point on the sill below. Next, the sill was tacked near each jamb and the head adjusted in or out until plumb. Then we stepped back and double-checked that everything was plumb and level.

It was not critical that the corner be exactly 90o. The critical requirement was that the jambs were plumb so that the two panes of glass would meet neatly at the corner. If small adjustments were needed, this was the time to make them. Once everything was plumb and level, we set the nails, puttied the holes and sanded them smooth.

Because of the proximity of the window to the door and to the floor, we had to use safety glass. And to achieve a clean line at the intersection of the glass, we used single panes (1/4 inches thick) rather than double-pane insulating glass, which would have made an awkward corner. We installed the glass exactly as before except that we applied a bead of clear silicone between the mating glass surfaces at the corner. After the silicone set, we trimmed off the excess inside and out with a razor blade. The final step was to miter the exterior stops and nail them into place.

Number crunching
When the windows were finished, I calculated how much they had cost us. We paid $4.34 per sq. ft for the insulating glass, $3.29 per sq ft for the tempered glass and billed our time at $40 per hour. The cost for all 12 windows and the corner side-light averaged just under $15 per sq ft.

Building fixed-glass windows is simpler than you might think. After making and installing the window frames, a bead of caulk is run around interior stops and the double-pane insulating glass is set in the opening and held in place with wooden stops.

Tip: Working on the job site with the tools at hand, you can easily beat the cost of special orders.

Choosing the right Equipment
Home-decorating outlets and retail chains are full of tools and equipment designed to aid you in almost every decorating project. Quality is unquestionably the key to success when buying equipment. Remember that you can add to a tool collection as the need arises.

Basic Painting Equipment

Having the most suitable tools for painting projects is very important. There are several basic tools that should form part of every home decorator's painting kit, and which may then be added to for tasks with more specific requirements. Buying good-quality equipment will reap benefits in the form of better, longer-lasting results.

The basic painting equipments are:
- Fitch
- 50 mm (2 in) brush
- 100 mm (4 in) brush
- Smooth roller sleeve
- Rough roller sleeve
- Dust mask
- Tape measure
- Paint kettle
- Roller cage
- Radiator roller
- Roller extension handle
- Bucket
- Dust sheet
- Roller tray
- Filling knife
- Sandpaper

Create paint effects
If you intend to use paint effects, you will require some additional equipment as well as certain different materials.

Testing equipment
Before buying any painting equipment - but especially large, costly pieces - test them for sturdiness, and make sure that they have an adequate guarantee.

Tips for choosing painting tools:

Brush
Brushes are multi-purpose and come in many shapes and sizes. They are ideal for cutting in and painting intricate details, and can be used on open wall surfaces, but will be slower than other tools.

Roller
Rollers are ideal for wide open surfaces, being by far the quickest tools for covering walls efficiently. Their size varies, but rollers are too large for cutting in. The texture of rollers also varies.

Sprayer
Sprayers are ideal where little masking is required, and for painting broad wall surfaces and inaccessible areas such as behind pipes. Using a sprayer can be a messy business, so protect adjacent surfaces.

Pad
Pads are suitable for large surfaces, and small pads are available for cutting in. They cause less mess than rollers. Use them where extensive masking would otherwise be necessary, such as in kitchens.

Additional Painting Equipment

Building up a paint-effect tool kit can be expensive, so do it gradually. Buy equipment as you need it, rather than purchasing everything that you think you may need in the future, only to find that you use few items.

Use the following list as a guide:
- Large decorating brush
- Flogger
- Masking tape
- Stencilling brush
- Natural sponge
- Craft knife
- Plastic bag
- Lint-free cloth
- Stippling brush
- Cutting mat


Improvising
You can use tools other than special-effect equipment for paint techniques. Experiment with different objects - ordinary household items as well as decorating tools - to create unique effects.

Basic Wallpapering Equipment

You will need more equipment for papering walls than for painting. Many tools, however, are required for both, so once those items are in your toolkit they can be used for either job.

Here you can find a list of that equipment:
- Goggles
- Wallpaper-hanging brush
- Pasting brush
- Rubber gloves
- Pasting table
- Pencil
- Cross-head screwdriver
- Slot-head screwdriver
- Seam roller
- Filling knife
- Ruler
- Wallpaper hanging scissors
- Spirit level
- Stepladder
- Bucket
- Chalk line
- Steam stripper
- Wallpaper scraper
- Sponge
- Craft knife
- Measuring jug
- Tape measure

Prioritizing quality
Buy the best quality tools that you can afford. This is particularly important for the items that are used most, and those that come into direct contact with the wallpaper, such as wallpaper-hanging and pasting brushes, seam roller, scissors, and a craft knife. The latter two items are vital for making accurate cuts and, therefore, achieving the best possible finish.

Choosing brushes
Select a pasting brush that will cover a surface evenly and efficiently, and a wallpaper-hanging brush with long, flexible bristles.

Considering safety
Follow the same safety precautions with regard to wallpapering materials and equipment as for painting.


Basic Painting Equipment for Wood

Equipment for painting wood is little different from that for painting walls, requiring just a few additional items.

The equipments are:
- Angle-head paintbrush
- 12.5 mm (½ in) paintbrush
- 50 mm (2 in) paintbrush
- Lint-free cloth
- Sandpaper
- Hot-air gun
- Dust sheet
- Small roller and tray

Choosing brushes
Painting woodwork involves more detailed and smaller-scale work than painting walls, so you will need a larger range of small brushes. Pure bristle brushes give the highest quality finish but are more expensive than their synthetic counterparts. They are, however, easier to use.

Selecting sandpaper
Buy several grades of sandpapers. A good quality, fine-grade paper is essential for the smoothest possible finish.

The additional painting equipments that you might need are:
- Fitch
- Softener
- Flogger
- Comb
- Rocker
- Burnishing tool
- Lint-free cloth
- Wire brush
- Wire wool
- Jam jar

Much of the equipment used for creating paint effects on walls can also be used for woodwork. Many tools are multi-purpose.

Including brushes
Include a variety of sizes of brush in your toolkit to cater for different surface areas and finishes.
Meeting specific requirements
A tool such as a rocker will enable you to produce a highly individual wood effect.

Shelving Equipment

Shelves may be constructed from a variety of different materials, but their basic design remains relatively consistent.

Here you can find a list of shelving equipment:
- Spirit level
- Medium-weight bracket
- Heavy-weight bracket
- Expanding wing plug
- Spring toggles
- Plastic wall plugs
- Power drill
- Shelf supports
- Shelving track (Large, medium, small)
- Shelves (Glass, Softwood, Hardwood)

Supporting shelves
All shelves require some support. The exact nature of the support will be determined by the decorative requirements of the shelving and the type of fixing it needs. Use strong supports for a heavy shelf, or one that will carry a heavy load.

Basic Hanging Equipment

A limited amount of equipment is required for picture hanging, since it is a relatively simple job to carry out. However, using the correct equipment is essential, in order to ensure that pictures are hung safely and securely.

The basic hanging equipments are:
- Hammer
- Pencil
- Picture hanging-cord
- Picture hanging-wire
- Eyelets
- Screws
- Wall plugs
- J hook
- Picture rail hook
- Nails and double picture hook
- Nail and single picture hook
- Concrete wall hook

Keeping pictures on the wall
Prevent picture fastenings or fixings from failing by using the appropriate hooks and thread for each picture. Many hooks are sold with guidelines as to the weight they can bear.

Basic Flooring Equipment

Much of the equipment needed for flooring is already a part of most household toolkits, but in case you are not organised I have a list of equipment that I am sure will help you get organised.

- Tenon saw
- Panel saw
- Tile cutter
- Cross-headed screwdrivers
- Slot-headed screwdrivers
- Craft knife
- Tape measure
- Spirit level
- Disc cutter
- Knee kicker
- Nail punch
- Chalk line
- Bolster
- Carpenter's pencil
- Claw hammer
- Staple punch

Tips:
1. Hiring specialist tools. Hire specialist equipment if you need it. It is usually expensive, and you are unlikely to use it enough to justify buying.
2. Checking hired equipment. Make sure that equipment is working and has all necessary operating instructions and safety recommendations.
3. Planning tool use. Plan your work so that you hire equipment only when you need it. Do not hire an item on day one if you will not require it until day three.

Basic Tiling Equipment

A toolkit for tiling will include a few more specialist tools than those which are required for most other decorating jobs. However, some general tools are, in effect, multi-purpose and lend themselves to a number of different tasks.

The list of tiling equipment is the following:
- Score-and-snap pliers
- Power drill
- Tile file
- Tile saw
- Nibbler
- Sponge
- Tile scorer
- Tile spacers
- Tile cutter
- Sealant dispenser
- Pointing trowel
- Filling knife
- Spirit level
- Felt-tip pen
- Notched spreader
- Grout spreader
- Tape measure
- Goggles
- Tile gauge

Choosing a tile cutter
By far the most important piece of equipment you will buy for tiling purposes is a tile cutter. Buy a good quality one, since a sub-standard cutter will not produce clean edges and will increase the number of tiles that you break while cutting. This is wasteful of materials and time, and will result in greater expense in the long run.

Buying wisely
Do not be deterred by the initial expense of a few key tiling items: they may prove themselves to be worth it in the long term, especially as your technique improves.

Hiring instead of buying
Consider hiring expensive pieces of equipment such as tile-cutting machines, which you will use only occasionally.

HEALTH AND SAFETY GUIDELINES

When decorating, consider the following important health and safety aspects:

Following Instructions
- Always read manufacturers' operating instructions before using any equipment.
- Make sure that you use any materials or chemicals safely, complying with statutory legislation regulating the use of substances hazardous to health. Follow advice on labels carefully before making up solutions or mixtures.

Using Equipment
- Make sure that ladders and stepladders are in good working order, and platforms have been constructed safely, to prevent injury from falling.

Dealing with Electrics
- Disconnect any electrical equipment when it is not in use, even for a short time.
- Switch off the power supply when decorating around switches or power points, and when cleaning them.
- Consider using a residual current circuit breaker to protect against electrocution.

Protecting People
- Increase the ventilation in a room to reduce the effects of dust and fumes.
- Wear a mask to minimize the amount of dust and fine particles that you inhale.
- Wear safety glasses to protect eyes from flying debris.
- Wear gloves to protect skin from injury and irritation.
- Keep all chemicals and tools away from children and out of the way of «corridors within your working area.

by Rory H. Hawkins

Are you in a profession, where you are exposed to harmful chemicals or airborne particles or are you in a habit of using such power tools as lathes, saws, sanders and likes at home? Then take a glimpse on this statistics:

Thousands of incidents involving eye injuries are recorded in the USA everyday.
Over 90% of these injuries occurred because there was no proper eyewear which could have prevented the mishaps.

Your eyes are your most precious possession and always take care that your eyes are protected from any kind of impact. But how can you give your eyes the best protection? Simple, invest in a pair of safety glasses. Does the term sound unfamiliar to you? Read the article below and equip yourself with all the necessary information about the safety glasses.

Safety glasses are safety shield for your precious eyes. Want to know how they differ from regular glasses? The regular glasses cover only the front side of your eyes, whereas the safety glasses cover your eyes from the sides as well as from the top in addition to covering the front side, so that nothing can enter your eyes and damage them. Safety glasses are those special kinds of eyewear that have passed through certain ANSI standards.

Not only the frames of these special glasses are much sturdier than the ordinary glasses, the lenses are also stronger with shatter resistance features. It implies that the lenses of safety glasses must pass a drop ball test, in which a ball is dropped on the lens to test whether it is hard enough to withstand all kinds of accidental assaults. The lenses are most commonly made of virgin resin polycarbonate which is stronger than regular lenses. The light weight and impact-resistant lenses of the safety glasses come in both prescription and non-prescription forms.

Apart from being sturdy, the frames are also heat resistant. They are also designed in a way that they prevent the lenses from being pushed into the eyes at the time of accident.

The safety glasses also protect your eyes from harmful UV rays and as such safety glasses are often used as sun glasses. They are also coated to resist scratches.

A new standard, ANSI Z87.1-2003, was passed recently to give instructions regarding the requirements of different types of safety glasses for different workplaces. There are mainly two types of lenses: high impact and basic impact. It is the responsibility of the employers who require protective eyewear for their employees to consult OSHA (Occupational Safety & Health Administration) regulations to know which type of safety glass is required at their job sites.